Prologue
Last fall, I found out about the American Israel Public Affairs Committee (AIPAC) Campus Allies Mission from both a classmate and a former professor. I met with the coordinators in January and submitted my application a few weeks later. I heard back in mid-March that I had been selected as one of the forty participants from across the country.
I could not have been more excited the day of my departure. I have been wanting to go to Israel for years (with trips in 2006 and 2008 being canceled). Despite the four hour delay (mechanical problems) out of Ronald Reagan National Airport, I was still able to make my connection at Newark Liberty International Airport. If you have flown to Israel before, you know it requires an extra security check at the gate right before boarding. My flight from Washington, D.C. landed just in time for me to make it through the security check and board my flight to Tel Aviv.
The flight was relatively uneventful. I had dinner, watched Invictus, which I highly recommend, and slept. By the time I woke up, we had crossed the Atlantic Ocean and were flying over continental Europe. No passenger is allowed to leave his seat during the last hour of the flight; this is another security requirement for flights into Israel. After landing, I made my way to customs where I was warmly welcomed to and thanked for visiting Israel.
Day 1
Though not a complete day, I still count my arrival day in Israel as Day 1. The first stop on the trip was Jerusalem. We boarded our motor coach and began the forty-five minute drive on Route 1 from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem. I was immediately struck by the abundance of Israeli flags everywhere. A few minutes into our drive, the staff told us that they had to brief us on a situation that occurred overnight. This is when and how I found out about the Israeli raid on the flotilla. Needless to say, it was quite an unnerving start to my trip to Israel. Our tour guide perhaps had the best comment: "There is never a dull moment here." Based on my initial conversations with Israelis that day, they were all anxious about the 'bad year' in the US-Israel relationship.
Entering Jerusalem was exciting. Finally visiting a city with such history, controversy and meaning is a very powerful experience. Israel with a divided Jerusalem or without Jerusalem is like a 'body without a soul' I was told. There was a fair amount of traffic as we drove to the Haas Promenade in the southeast corner of the city. Here, we had a panoramic view of Jerusalem.
After taking in the city, we arrived at our hotel. While I was checking-in I actually ran into two people I know from Georgetown. We chatted briefly (neither of them knew the other was also in Jerusalem) and parted ways. It is a small world, indeed. I immediately went to my room and took a shower before dinner and our orientation. I was absolutely ready to go to sleep that night.
Day 2
I woke up early the next day at 6am -- not because of jetlag, but because I had to be up that early. In the aftermath of the flotilla incident, the schedule was modified for security reasons. Protests, marches and isolated, sporadic violence throughout Jerusalem compelled the organizers to keep the group away from Jerusalem. I had breakfast and boarded our motor coach for the drive south to Masada. I immediately noticed that our hotel was next to one of the UN offices in Jerusalem. There is surprisingly a lot of traffic at 7am in Jerusalem; the morning commute was also affected by the construction of Jerusalem's first light rail line. As a morning person, I felt at home among Israelis, and as Phoenician, I could relate to light rail construction.
Masada is about an hour and a half south of Jerusalem, overlooking the Dead Sea. Leaving Jerusalem, we passed by some of the controversial Jewish settlements in the eastern part of the city. Construction was at a standstill for the most part. The term "settlements" is not very well defined. Some settlements are smaller -- a few homes -- others are fully-integrated suburbs. This inevitably makes negotiating difficult. Israelis are committed to peace, as long as it is genuine and not spelled "p-i-e-c-e." There is a healthy cynicism in Israel.
In an effort to re-start the peace process, Israel has unilaterally begun to open checkpoints to ease the movement of people and goods between the West Bank and Israel. Also, I did not realize this until after the fact when I looked at my map, but we actually entered and drove through the West Bank to get to Masada. We drove past Jericho and then south on Route 90. Route 90 is safe compared to other roads in the area.
Masada is a national park that commemorates the Jewish revolt against the Romans. There are ruins (a fort, Roman baths, a palace, a temple) at the top of a mountain. We took the cable car instead of hiking. After Masada, we went to the spa at Ein Gedi a few minutes away from Masada. The spa is near the Dead Sea; at one point it was on the shores of the Dead Sea, but as the Dead Sea's water level retreats, the spa is more distant. We had lunch here and, of course, swam (read: floated) in the salty Dead Sea. The Dead Sea and its rich mineral deposits drive industry in the area and bring in tourism, thereby sustaining the local economy.
As a former desert dweller, I immediately noticed the similarities between Israel and Arizona. Water resources are limited and dry land is abundant. Israel's future depends on the development of the desert. There are both challenges and opportunities that come with this.
We returned to Jerusalem that afternoon for a briefing. As part of the trip, AIPAC provided us with access to Israeli policy makers and public intellectuals. Our first briefing was with Devorah Patt the director of AIPAC's Jerusalem office. She provided an overview of Israel's government (including the 'fragile' coalition of Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu), Israeli politics and the 'frustrating...double standard' of media criticism toward Israel.
After our briefing, we visited Liberty Bell Park in central Jerusalem. We had dinner there and walked back to our hotel along King David Street stopping to shop for an hour in the Mamila district. I was absolutely exhausted after a full 18-hour day.
Day 3
I was able to sleep in until 7am this day. After breakfast, we left the hotel for the Mevasseret Zion neighborhood northwest of Jerusalem. Here, we visited an absorption center for Ethiopian immigrants run by the Jewish Agency for Israel. Israel's absorption department provides immigrants with a generous 'benefits package' upon arrival that includes Hebrew lessons, subsidized housing during the transition process, schooling and job search assistance. We were able to talk to the director and hear from an Ethiopian immigrant. We were then able to visit one of the schools in the neighborhood and interact with the children.
We left Mevasseret Zion and drove south, across Jerusalem to the Gilo neighborhood. Here, we were given an expert tour of the security barrier between Israel and the West Bank by Colonel Danny Tirza, the chief architect behind the design and construction of the security barrier. The security barrier is 95% wire fencing and 5% concrete wall. From where we were, we had a good view of Bethlehem in the West Bank. There is a sophisticated system of sensors and cameras that monitor the separation line. Public opinion is split on the security barrier, but it is without a doubt keeping Israel safe.
The next stop (after lunch) was the Israeli Supreme Court in Jerusalem. We learned about the Israeli judicial system and sat in on a case. The building itself is in the governmental sector of Jerusalem across from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and near the Knesset. We left downtown Jerusalem and drove west to the John F. Kennedy Memorial. The monument is designed as a tree stump to symbolize a life cut short. After taking our official group photo, we returned to the hotel for dinner and the evening's programming.
Our second briefing was with Gil Hoffman, The Jerusalem Post's chief political correspondent. We discussed the state of the US-Israel relationship, the Middle East peace process and the recent flotilla incident. We also had our third briefing that night with Joe Perlov, CEO and founder of Israel Experts. He provided a historical overview of the changing map of modern Israel. The third day ended with a group processing session. I also spent some time afterward talking with a few friends before retiring for the night.
Day 4
This was probably my favorite day. It was also the most tiring day. We had a 6am wake-up call followed by breakfast before our early morning departure for the Old City. Our first stop was the Mount of Olives. From here, we had a spectacular view of the Old City: the Dome of the Rock Mosque, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and a Jewish cemetery. We then descended to the Garden of the Gethsemane where we saw olive trees from Biblical time. We also visited the Church of the Gethsemane.
Before entering the Old City, we visited the tomb of King David and the Cenacle, which is the site of the Last Supper. We entered the Old City through the Zion Gate and wandered through the winding streets of the Old City until arriving at the Ophel archeological site near the al-Aqsa Mosque. After visiting the archeological museum to cool off, we continued on our walking tour to the Western Wall. We then walked through the Muslim Quarter and along the Via Dolorosa to arrive at Amigo Emil's for lunch.
Though it is condensed to a few pictures and some sentences, the walk from the time we entered the Old City through the Zion Gate until we sat down for lunch at Amigo Emil's was several hours. We left the restaurant and continued walking to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. There, we saw the Stone of the Anointing and the Edicule. Our next stop was the Christian Quarter. We shopped along bazaar-lined streets and took in the architecture, including the Church of the Redeemer. After a full day in the Old City, we left through the Jaffa Gate and drove to the Garden Tomb where we saw Golgotha and Jesus' tomb.
The day did not end there. We returned to the hotel for a briefing with former Israeli spokesperson Miri Eisen. She was the spokesperson during Operation Cast Lead (along with my then-professor and now Israeli ambassador, Michael Oren) and provided an inside look at the communications protocol within the Israeli government and government-media relations in Israel.
After the briefing, we departed for Ben Yehuda street, a shopping and dining district in central Jerusalem, for a late dinner. A group of friends and I ate at a Mediterranean restaurant and then walked around the area. We left at 11pm. I was asleep by midnight.
Day 5
This was my last full day in Jerusalem and the midpoint of the trip. I slept in until 8am then had breakfast. The first stop of the day was Yad Vashem Holocaust Museum. The museum's design is symbolic: the concrete structure cuts into the mountain like a dagger piercing the heart of the Jewish people. Visiting any Holocaust museum is a powerful experience; the museum in Jerusalem is no exception. Unlike the US Holocaust Museum in Washington, D.C. the Israeli museum is more sensitive to graphic photography. The museum grounds are filled with monuments including the Pillar of Heroism, the Children's Memorial and Janusz Korczak Square commemorating the efforts of a Polish educator who ran an orphanage in the Warsaw Ghetto.
After spending the morning at Yad Vashem, we left for Mount Herzl. This is Israel's national cemetery. We visited the tomb of Zionist Theodor Herzl, the mountain's namesake. We then visited the tombs of two Israeli national leaders: Yitzhak Rabin (and his wife) and Golda Meir. Before leaving Mount Herzl, we also visited the tombs of Israeli soldiers, including Jonathan Netanyahu, brother of the current prime minister.
For lunch, we were given free time at Mehane Yehuda market. I enjoyed walking in the crowded market and seeing the many vendors, including an olive shop. Since it was Friday, the city quiets down due to Shabbat. We returned to the hotel to change into more formal attire for Shabbat services at the Western Wall. Photography is not permitted at the Western Wall on Shabbat. The experience is unlike anything else. There is dancing, praying and singing. It is a very festive environment because of the significance of the Western Wall.
We returned to the hotel for dinner. I spent some time packing and then lounged in the lobby talking with friends. Since almost everything was closed for Shabbat, we had a free evening. I enjoyed my full night's sleep.
Day 6
The first stop on our day-long tour of the Galilee valley was the Mount of the Beatitudes. We arrived at the same time as a group of pilgrims, including two young drummers, from Eritrea. The Church of the Beatitudes overlooks the Sea of Galilee, which is a freshwater lake; it was built using volcanic stone indigenous to the area. From here, we drove to Capernaum, the center of Jesus' ministry in the Galilee valley. Today, there are several ruins (including a synagogue and Peter's house) and a monastery (also built from volcanic stone). We left Capernaum and had lunch at a nearby kibbutz. Our final stop that afternoon was Yardenit near the mouth of the Jordan River. Yardenit is a baptismal site that attracts a lot of international visitors.
We took a midday break by checking into our hotel. We had a few hours of free time to unpack, nap and swim. We all met in the lobby shortly before sunset and boarded a convoy of all-terrain vehicles for a ride through the Galilee valley. The nearly four hour ride gave us a huge adrenaline rush. Our group's driver was an horticulturist and not only gave us information about the history of the area, but also, its topography and (edible) plant life. We concluded the day with a (very late) traditional Bedouin dinner.
The long day ended around midnight. We all retreated to our lakeside villas for a night's sleep. We had another busy day ahead of us.
Day 7
Since I was so tired this morning, I sacrificed some breakfast time for extra sleep. At this point in the trip, though, I was accustomed to functioning on 6 to 7 hours of sleep. We left our hotel shortly after 8am and drove north toward Israel's border with Lebanon and Syria.
The first stop was the Tel Dan water reserve in the Golan Heights. The area provides nearly 40% of Israel's water supply. From our vantage point, we could also look into Lebanon. After a hike through the area, we drove to Bental Mountain. There is a now-inoperable Israeli Defense Force outpost at the summit of the mountain. IDF fighters held their ground here during the Yom Kippur War of 1973. Syria is visible from Bental Mountain. After taking the views of the Golan Heights and the surrounding area, we left for the Jordan River for lunch and an afternoon of rafting.
Shortly before sunset, we boarded a boat for a cruise on the Sea of Galilee. It was spectacular. We then dined seaside at St. Peter's Fish Restaurant in Ein Gev. We took the rest of the evening off and returned to the hotel for swimming and sleeping.
Day 8
By now, we all realize our trip would be ending soon. This was hard to process. After a week of non-stop together-ness, we would soon be parting ways. But we still had a few more days together.
We checked out of our hotel and began the drive toward Nazareth. In Canaan, I was struck by the prevalence of flags from other countries (particularly Brazil and Argentina). There is a significant expatriate population there. Our first stop in Nazareth was the Basilica of the Annunciation, which is the largest church in the Middle East. We then walked through the old city to city hall where we met with the mayor and deputy mayor.
We had a traditional Druze lunch in the suburbs of Haifa. The Druze are a religious community spread out throughout the Levant. Our host taught us about the Druzes' beliefs and traditions. It was very informative. As we were leaving his home, the sonic boom of two Israeli fighter jets stirred the quiet afternoon. Our security guard explained that it was a planned exercise. Given Haifa's proximity to the border with Lebanon, an area controlled largely by Hamas, there are extra precautions to safeguard the local population.
Our original schedule included a stop at the naval base in Haifa. Due to the ongoing tensions in the region in the aftermath of the flotilla incident, we were unable to visit. Instead, we went to the Armed Corps Memorial and Museum in Latrun, just west of Jerusalem; apart from the tanks, there is also a wall with the names of Israel's fallen soldiers. Latrun sits on a hill overlooking the Ayalon Vally.
From Latrun, we drove west to Tel Aviv. This was the last stop on our trip. Tel Aviv is unlike any other Israeli city. It is modern and commercialized, yet traditional and historic. There are steel and glass skyscrapers as well as stone homes. We drove through the center of town and arrived at our hotel on the boardwalk adjacent to the beaches.
We checked in and had dinner. The day ended with a walk through the entertainment district and a visit to an exclusive rooftop club. A few friends and I left early to walk on the soft-sand beaches. We returned to the hotel to rest and prepare for our busy ninth day.
Day 9
If Day 4 visiting the Old City was my favorite day because of the historical and cultural significance, then Day 9 was my favorite day because of the policy exposure and diversity of scheduled events.
We began the morning by having breakfast at the hotel. We then walked a few blocks to the American Embassy for a briefing. Security was heavy as expected. For about an hour, we were able to discuss (off the record) American policy toward the Arab-Israeli conflict, settlements, borders, water access and the broader US-Israel strategic relationship. We had a few hours of free time before lunch. I decided to wander the streets of Tel Aviv and exchanged some dollars for shekels at a local bank.
We had a quick lunch at the hotel around midday and then departed for our afternoon activity. We arrived at the newly opened Yitzhak Rabin Museum. The new museum not only explores the life and legacy of the former Israeli prime minister, but also, it serves as a library chronicling Rabin's efforts to secure a sustainable peace. I have studied Rabin in several classes and consider him a personal hero, so I was particularly moved by the quality and accessibility of the museum. Plus, it had a great view of Tel Aviv.
The afternoon was just as eventful. We returned to the hotel for a briefing from Yaniv Ofek with the Institute for Policy and Strategy on the security challenges facing Israel and the broader Middle East -- namely, Iran. We also discussed the roles of Syria and Turkey. For dinner we traveled to the Nahalat Binyamin market. I really enjoy market visits; there is always a lot to see, hear, taste and smell.
Our evening activity was a visit to the Palmach Museum. The museum guides visitors through the lead-up to Israeli independence from the perspective of six soldiers. It is an interactive and indoor experience, which was definitely comforting after spending the afternoon walking. Since it was our last night in Israel, most of us returned to the hotel and got ready for a night out on the town. It was a lot of fun, but we all came to regret it in the morning.
Day 10
This was my last day in Israel. I could not believe that the time had gone by so quickly. Still, we had a full-day of scheduled events. After breakfast, we departed for the Reut Institute. The Reut Institute was one of the first think tanks in Israel. We split up into small groups there and had different briefings on current projects the fellows are conducting. Before we left for lunch, we stopped by a mall in the area to do some last-minute shopping. I did not buy anything since malls tend to be the same no matter where I am in the world.
We left central Tel Aviv and drove south to Jaffa. We had a filling and festive lunch at a restaurant then had free time in historic Jaffa. Since I was mostly done with my shopping, I decided to go on a walking tour of old Jaffa. It was definitely worth it. The view of Tel Aviv from the port was excellent. Plus, I really enjoyed taking in the distinctive architecture of the many stone homes, the area mosque, shops and streets.
From Jaffa, we drove to the Neve Tsedek neighborhood in Tel Aviv. The area is very artistic, including pro-Israeli graffiti. Again, it was also nice to see the unique architecture of the homes, shops, administrative buildings and the juxtaposition of old and new. After walking for about an hour, we arrived at Independence Hall for a guided tour. This is where the state of Israel was declared in 1948.
As the afternoon transpired, we were all trying to not think about our imminent departure. We left Tel Aviv and drove southeast to a kibbutz for our final dinner. Before the meal, we had a processing session to discuss the trip and everything we saw and learned. It is truly remarkable how much occurred in ten days. For me, six semesters' worth of classes focusing on the Arab-Israeli conflict and a lifetime of curiosity came to life. The trip was not only a chance to travel but also an educational experience.
The drive to the airport was quiet. We checked in, went through the various levels of Israeli airport security and boarded our trans-Atlantic flight. We were on our way home, but part of us would always remain in Israel. I know I will return to Israel and the broader Middle East one day.
Epilogue
The AIPAC Campus Allies Mission to Israel impacted me in many ways. Upon my return, I completely altered my class schedule in order to take more classes on the Arab-Israeli conflict and the broader Middle East. I am also increasing my involvement with AIPAC and participation in on campus activism.
Perhaps the best aspect of the trip was making great friends. I am in touch with about a dozen friends. A few of them have even visited me in Washington already. It is truly remarkable how close we are now.
For now, I am continuing my academic interest in the region and hope it develops into a professional life-long commitment. I look forward to my next visit to Israel, but the memories of my trip this past June will forever live on.
